It is describe as below

The scent is combination with notes of rosewater and peony. It will make you feel revitalised and energised,. After a little while you start to notice the slightly heavier notes of precious woods, which give it an earthier oaky feel, but then it settles into a light sigh across the body, which feels like a cold hand passing over your face whilst you nap. If I had any criticisms it would dbe that this scent is almost to elusive, and gives more of a fleeting wave than a rush of fragrance, but if you're looking for gentle and subtle this is the one for you this summer. Quote from http://www.kissandmakeup.tv/2008/04/issey_miyakes_d.html

Item desciptions:

3.3 fl. oz (100ml)
Eau de Toilette Vaporisateur - Natural Spray !
Brand New in a Sealed Retail Package & Price Tag!
100 % Authentic and Brand New!
Never been opened or tested!

For interested buyer, please leave your comments here and don't forget to fill up your e-mail address correctly as I will email you with the answers.

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Get up to speed on 2009 fashion with the Times family critics. (Getty/Getty/AP)

Did real-world matters like the yo-yo-ing markets, the presidential race and the war steal your attention away from Paris fashion week? If they did, you missed spring-summer 2009 clothing made of wigs (at Margiela), dresses of deconstructed soccer balls (at Comme des Garçons) and camel-toe footwear (at Balenciaga). Which collections were chic? Which were ugly? Which were ugly but in a chic kind of way? To help answer those questions, we've culled a few bon mots from the Times family critics Suzy Menkes (SM), Eric Wilson (EW) and Cathy Horyn (CH). If you're still craving fashion, you can flash back to our critics' roundup from Milan or New York.

To read the full review, click on the name of the collection.

A.F. Vandevorst: "had a sexy schoolgirl look about it" -- SM
Alexander McQueen: "used computer images of crushed crystals, wood grains, animals, human skeletons and the iron grid of the Eiffel Tower as the basis for dazzling digitalized prints on silk jersey" -- CH
Alexander McQueen: "The rumble from the jungle that has been echoing through the international collections was given meaning" -- SM
Ann Demeulemeester: "it was a pleasure to see Ms. Demeulemeester make such imaginative use of standard white cotton" -- CH
Ann Demeulemeester: "This was a playful Demeulemeester in fine form." -- SM
Azzedine Alaïa: "the most exuberant display in raffia and python" -- CH
Balenciaga: "It was hard, though, to react to these clothes purely on a gut level. ('I love them -- I want to wear them.')" -- CH
Balenciaga: "The god of futuristic fashion has spoken: 'Let there be light'" -- SM
Balmain: "If your visual references are MTV and rock album covers, you will understand, if not appreciate Christophe Decarnin's Balmain" -- CH
Chapurin: "captured a bold new energy to create a Russian fashion revolution" -- SM
Chanel: "[Karl Lagerfeld] seems to regularly ask himself the question 'What is Chanel?' -- as if he knows it’s a living thing." -- CH
Chanel: "It felt right not to be straining too hard to be cool and to offer women -- not to mention panicked retailers -- a safe fashion haven." -- SM
Chloé: "No doubt Ms. MacGibbon . . . will hear from plenty of critics about her very long trousers, and look back upon them critically herself and feed her eye from smaller plates." -- CH
Chloé: "what may have been amusing in an earlier girly era looks indulgent in the current crisis" -- SM
Christian Dior: "chic, not tribal cheek" -- SM
Christian Lacroix: "Nowhere was the new mood for keeping frivolity in check more obvious." -- SM
Comme des Garçons: "filled with wit and extravagance" -- CH
Comme des Garçons: "It was weird, but not excessively so. Sober, but not depressing. Good, but not great." -- SM
Costume National: "Lots of things today are being interpreted along Modernist architectural lines" -- CH
Dries Van Noten: "seemed a deeply personal view of Paris, women and French chic" -- CH
Dries Van Noten: "as calm as it was revolutionary" -- SM
Emanuel Ungaro: "The short hemlines, worn by models perched on pin heels, may play better in Latin countries than a gloomy Europe or a chastened North America." -- SM
Gareth Pugh: "The collection will someday look great in a museum, with the white and black clothes making for a walking Op Art exhibition." -- EW
Giambattista Valli: "A more accurate word for this tranquilized mood -- and the collection in general -- would have been Valium." -- CH
Giambattista Valli: "looked too much like a résumé for someone who wants to take over a couture house" -- SM
Givenchy: "Looking at the mess tonight that is the spring Givenchy collection -- a label that people covet -- it's easy to believe that mindless acquisition actually has a style." -- CH
Givenchy: "The old adage that it is better to travel hopefully than to arrive seems relevant." -- SM
Haider Ackerman: "can best be described as a 21st-century romantic" -- SM
Hermès: "far more than a tedious travelogue" -- SM
Hussein Chalayan: "the message felt a tad preachy, like a crossing guard wagging his finger at the Treasury. Hey! Look both ways!" -- EW
Hussein Chalayan: "did the designer know in advance that the financial world would be a car crash?" -- SM
Issey Miyake: "a fine collection that not only walked the natural world in bare-the-toe sandals, but also had a deeper feeling that the designer had, for the first time, captured the Issey Miyake DNA" -- SM
Jean Paul Gaultier: "Jean Paul Gaultier has certainly mellowed if he finds excitement in a dancer's leotard and warm-up sweater." -- CH
Jean Paul Gaultier: "a liquid geometry that Gaultier, now that he is a fine couturier, made look as easy as an Olympian high jump" -- SM
John Galliano: "looked gentle and inviting compared with some of the ugly and overwrought clothes we've seen in the last two weeks" -- CH
John Galliano: "sweet, pretty, but totally expected" -- SM
John Galliano: "the strawlike bangs on the models, their accentuated eyes and glossy platforms (with gold fertility-symbol heels) sometimes just made you think of 'Desperate Housewives'" -- CH
Junya Watanabe: "He took materials that might easily be judged prosaic and down-market . . . and made the results delightfully appealing." -- CH
Junya Watanabe: "out of Africa, Junya Watanabe's graceful show took the native practice of carrying items on the head and turned it into a festival of nature" -- SM
Karl Lagerfeld: "went ultra-sharp" -- CH
Karl Lagerfeld: "this riff on rigor did not cut it" -- SM
Kenzo: "bathed in a silver shine, as though reflected in Alice's looking glass" -- SM
Kinder Aggugini: "sleek tailoring with color at the hem bleeding away, as if the bohemian madcap had taken a dip in the River Seine" -- SM
Lanvin: "a nonchalant style of draping; hardly D.I.Y., but if you're wearing a one-shoulder dress in fireball-orange silk with a puff of fabric grazing your face and arm, the effect should be slightly unserious" -- CH
Lanvin: "used strong color on dresses, caressing the body to reactivate fashion desire" -- SM
Limi Feu: "strong but never simple" -- SM
Louis Vuitton: "told a lot about the intensity of Mr. Jacobs's affections for Paris, and how expressive he has become as a designer" -- CH
Louis Vuitton: "a cracking good show" -- SM
Maison Martin Margiela: "it was a strange sensation to walk out of a Margiela show with a sense of déjà vu" -- EW
Maison Martin Margiela: "somehow this show, for all the enforced jollity, was under the shadow of questions about the house's future" -- SM
Manish Arora: "It was mad, it was manic, it was in the actual sense of the words a fashion circus." -- SM
Miu Miu: "the use of paint-splashed burlap was most intriguing" -- CH
Miu Miu: "Why aprons? Why a symbol of women tied to the kitchen? Why now -- when the return of the power woman has been a constant theme of the summer 2009 season?" -- SM
Nina Ricci: "would look perfect in French film or in a literary-minded fashion shoot" -- CH
Nina Ricci: "something haunting that lingered after the last model dragged her long train off the runway" -- SM
Revillon: "a cute collection of summer furs" -- SM
Rick Owens: "The collection wasn't as awesome as smoke clouds typically promise." -- CH
Rick Owens: "women in wimples and plain dark outfits . . . walked the runway on feet covered with flaps of cloth. Was it a statement about the absurd concentration on fetishistic shoes this season? A breath of minimalism to blow away excess?" -- SM
Sonia Rykiel: "Could there have been anything more quintessentially French. . .?" -- EW
Sonia Rykiel: "spilled over with merriment as the models, wearing jaunty crystal-studded berets, camped up Gallic gorgeousness" -- SM
Sophia Kokosalaki: "But who is the real Kokosalaki and why was this travelogue compelling to the designer?" -- SM
Stella McCartney: "If it is possible for her designs to become any more light and ephemeral, as they have season to season, eventually there will be nothing to see besides Sir Paul sitting across the runway." -- EW
Stella McCartney: "finally got her fashion mojo working, after a period when her inspiration seemed to be on maternity leave" -- SM
Tao Kurihara: "has carved out a niche between the kawaii cuteness of Japan's child-woman, to something more positively grown up" -- SM
Undercover: "The cuddly aliens threatened to steal the show." -- EW
Undercover: "fluffy animals with luminous eyes were perched on the shoulders of mannequins, appearing as magical creatures in an Undercover fairy tale" -- SM
Valentino: "struggled to say something new" -- CH
Valentino: "The Valentino woman had stepped down off her pedestal onto a floor-level catwalk." -- SM
Viktor & Rolf: "you could actually get a pretty realistic idea of the dresses, dangling like paper lanterns, and how the loudly graphic tights and shorts combinations gave off a robotic Balenciaga vibe" -- EW
Viktor & Rolf: "proved that there is no substitute for a live show" -- SM
Vivienne Westwood: "the designer who had, for so long, been focused on fashion historicism suddenly showed an interest in coping with modern issues" -- SM
Yohji Yamamoto: "a collection that looked as if it were made for a Wall Street funeral procession" -- EW
Yohji Yamamoto: "Calm, beauty and -- yes -- glamour was the feeling at Yohji Yamamoto's show, although the designer himself, uncharacteristically frisky as he came out on the runway, said just one cryptic word: 'Eros.'" -- SM
Yves Saint Laurent: "offered a lot of appealing clothes -- smart, wearable but somehow missing that real Saint Laurent sex appeal and mystery" -- CH
Yves Saint Laurent: "Stefano Pilati pushed, pulled and tugged at the house's references and manipulated his own architectural spirit to give a modernist interpretation of a power woman." -- SM

The shows all ran very late, so Paris made Milan look like a well oiled engine in comparison - there's a surprise! The overall feeling was back to what they do well for most of the designers probably because of the current economic climate - the majority of the designers focused on what will sell rather than the revolutionary.

One theme seemed to be the underlying African, tribal vibe, with prints on effortlessly light fabrics, lovely soft spring colours with more wearable shoes than in Milan, though not so sure about the pregnant lady heels (fertility symbol!) by John Galliano for Dior.

Very strong collections from Yohji Yamamoto, Dries van Noten and Issey Miyake show a design spirit typical of those designers but not specifically trend identifiable - these are collections that could have come from any time and don’t appear to be seasonal specific. Very useful when clothes may have to last longer than we are used to. Ann Demeulemeester is another who sticks to her guns, adding more colour - flame and saffron - and lighter fabrics but her asymmetric, occasionally androgynous, style seems more feminine and wearable this season.

Many designers are celebrating anniversaries – Margiela twenty years in the business, amongst rumours that this most reclusive of designers is, or already has, taken a back seat in his company, though as usual with him this is shrouded in mystery and there are denials. Sonia Rykiel celebrated forty years and going strong, though mostly her daughter Nathalie designs now. The Paris icon's show and party was the bash of the week, especially the 30-odd outfits designed by other top names in Rykiel style, with most applause going to the "wig" jacket by Margiela which looked like her bushy red hair, and Gaultier's long, loosely knitted mohair dress which looked like a work in progress - its strapless neckline was formed by a pair of giant knitting needles with the stitches still cast on.

Spotted: One super cool fashionista seen struggling to walk in the über-high Stella McCartney heelless clogs – these seem best left for the mantlepiece as a piece of art, rather than running around the shows. Ironically the very strange Marc Jacobs – ‘backwards’ heel which shows off the sole, should one want to see it, seems a far easier ‘walk’.

Friday, 3rd

All week the press have been seen stomping around in black strappy cage shoes on huge platforms but their days are numbered now that style leader Carine Roitfeld, the Editor of French vogue (who virtually started the bondage shoe trend) has opted for plain black patent, high heeled classic courts with no platform.

By Friday, the shows had started to heat up and the fabulous Yves St Laurent Show had THE accessory of the season, a mesh boot with Eiffel Tower- girder heel – a must have on every fashionista’s list – wow, we want those NOW! Stephano Pilati is very clear as to where he’s taking things - strong, modern, no wishy-washy lack of direction and even a shoe you can walk in!

Talk about folie des grandeurs for Chanel - Karl Lagerfield took over the huge Grand Palais and built a set from the façade of the Rue de Cambon store with the roadway in front of if as the catwalk – mixed chic suits with Victoriana, and Wallis Simpson-style hair with narrow Alice bands for the models – hmm... make of it what you will.

Check out the strappy sandals with abstract versions of house symbols, and the python clutches with "dog collar" studs. Best of all were Naomi Campbell and Stephanie Seymour as two very sophisticated saloon bar girls - really separating the women from the waifs.

[caption id="attachment_281" align="alignleft" width="200" caption="John Galliano, Paris S/S 09"][/caption]

Galliano is the only place to go for a great frock - he might have shown in a tram shed beyond the Péripherique but this was so not industrial, just fabulous dresses in all colours from hot red and pink to soft pastel prints, many shown under variants of his favourite jacket shapes, from Poiret-style opera coats to eighteenth century frock coats but all given a slouchy parka look. Forget the mad hats, and the extraordinary shoes with what looked like two curlicued heels at right angles - this was his most wearable collection for years and the buyers were in heaven.

Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton reckoned more was more - great little separates, mainly a fitted, sharp-shouldered jacket with a pair of wide, soft trousers or a flirty, duck-tail skirt - but then he added wrapped belts, bags, sandals and huge jewels, mostly metallic and sporting beads and feathers - slightly tribal, slightly Parisienne but wow, one at a time please! Even Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, having done beautifully couture-cut, calm, colour blocked clothes with easy volume, suddenly broke out into bright leopard print, metallics and crazy sunglasses. Never mind, it all gave a great lift to a slightly sombre week and something to look forward to if the winter of the credit crunch ever ends.

E não deu outra: Amazônia, Rio de Janeiro e Oscar Niemeyer encheram a passarela e emocionaram Paris!

Em abril passado, Dai deu palestra aqui em São Paulo, no MAM, sobre o conceito A-POC que, basicamente, dedine-se em várias peças de roupas desenhas num pedaço de tecido, que você recortar o que preferir usar e sai vestindo Issey Miyake feliz da vida.

Quem visitou a recente exposiçao em homenagem ao centenário da Imigração Japonesa no MAM, deve lembrar-se da instalção do Issey Miyake que explorava o conceito.

Dai Fujiwara took us on a journey into an ephemerical jungle of shades of green and pales. Like nixies the models almost floated on the runway showing of sophisticated cuts and delicate fabrics. Pleated dresses, the Miyake signature pieces did not dominate the runway as usual, but left room for elegant yet casual day- and early evening outfits with refined prints. To find the colors Dai had gone to a fact finding mission to Brazil and this elaborate research has obviously payed off.

Veronique Branquinho

An easy going soft silhouette was the biggest tendency. Short shifts with landscape prints in pales are dresses that will be very versatile, easy to wear and easy to accessorize. Long oversized jackets with three quarter sleeves are worn over shorts and a white shirt. Less edgier then previous collections it might open doors towards new clientele. Surprisingly enough neutral loving Branquinho was one of the designers who showed more colors than average this season. To sum it up, I saw a collection that makes me want to find out more about this young designer.

Bulgari Store Opening / Balenciaga After party

After dinner I went to the opening party of the new Bulgari store in Avenue George V. The exhibit of haute joaillierie was breathtaking, but none had more bling than the necklace worn by ever so good looking Mila Jovovich. 

[caption id="attachment_1511" align="aligncenter" width="613" caption="The party, The bling, Susan & Mila Jovovich; photos: René Horak"][/caption]

When the champagne reserves had dried out, people headed to Le Baron next door where Nicolas Ghesquière was having his bash celebrating his Spring Summer collection.

[caption id="attachment_1512" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Susan and Hamish Bowles at the Balenciaga bash; photo: René Horak"][/caption]

 

 

You see some pretty crazy off-runway looks during Fashion Week, but this one takes the cake. This front-row guest at the Issey Miyake show sported a towering headdress of intricate black lace and dark black sunglasses kept on throughout the show. I feel sorry for the person behind her!

Beginnen wir mit Yamamoto: Die gezeigten Hosenanzüge waren einfach nur toll! Klar, dass sie schwarz oder grau sind, aber diese Farben gehören nun mal zu ihm. Die weißen Blusen wie immer tadellos - und die gezeigten Sonnenbrillen ein Traum. Die weiten Röcke zeige ich hier mal gar nicht, denn ich will das Augenmerk auf die Hosen und die Oberteile lenken.

Kommen wir nun zu Issey Miyake. Designer Dai Fujiwara war in den letzten Saisons zu bemüht gewesen, künstlerisch wertvoll zu sein, so dass es am Ende nur daneben ging. Höhepunkt der bizarren Entwicklung der Firma war die Zusammenarbeit mit dem Staubsauger-Menschen Dyson vor einem Jahr. Die Modelle waren immer untragbarer geworden und die Konzepte dahinter so um die Ecke konstruiert, dass man nicht mehr mitkam. Und nun? Color Hunting hieß das Thema, die Farbsuche erfolgte im Dschungel und der Großstadt, gefunden wurden 3000 Farben, die wurden verglichen mit der Natur und herauskam eine poetische, farbenreiche Kollektion, die endlich wieder den Geist Miyakes aufgreift. So einfach, so gut und so schön inszeniert mit gefärbten Fäden, die als Vorhang den Laufsteg teilten. Bravo!

Fotos: modepilot/parisoffice

Ich glaube, es lag daran, dass die Mädchen auf dem Catwalk flache Sandalen tragen durften anstatt Killer-Plateaus mit Sturzgefahr:

Fotos: stardustfashion.com

Olha, vou contra a correnteza, vou destacar um estilista que não se fala muito fora daqui: Lie Sang Bong, um koreano que está dominando a capital francesa. Coleção impecável, com muita geometria e shapes futuristas. O estilista foi intitulado embaixador do design de Seul, que quer mostrar ao mundo seu potencial criativo.

Bem, quem estava encantada com a coleção era Susie lau, que foi mega assediada pela imprensa. Conversei com ela (deu uma mini- entrevista para o programa), que falou muito sobre a imagem positiva que levou de SP e das pessoas que conheceu aqui (Glauco ela falou de vc,viu que chique?) e da enorme vontade de voltar para conhecer mais do nosso mercado de moda.

Alguns looks tinham layers / camadas bem finas que criavam um ótimo efeito na passarela.  

As estruturas com a estampa geométrica era uma tela bem delicada que permitia essa construção na peça.

Como aqui tudo é mega tranqüilo, muito diferente do backstage que fazemos no Brasil, que ficamos hooooras na porta para entrar e tem milhares de jornalistas querendo entrevistar e tal, aqui nós temos ficado até o final, porque conversamos com calma com os estilistas, fazemos as imagens que queremos com muita tranqüilidade e por isso temos presenciado vários momentos mais íntimos da equipe, se é que podemos chamar dessa maneira. rs

Abaixo é  equipe de Lie Sang Bong tirando a foto final, no momento que todos estavam indo embora, chegaram a nos convidar para participar da foto. Mas aí já é se julgar intima demais,né?

Já Anne Valérie Hash lembra muito Huis Clos, não só na criação, mas também na semelhança da diretora criativa, principalmente no comportamento, gentil e delicado.

No backstage a top Irina Lazareanu.

Na correria entre um desfile e outro, é impossível não perder nada. Perdemos o desfile da marca de lingerie Marlies Dekkers, que é queridinha das celebridades e faz parte do calendário off do evento. Rolou no Palais de Tokyo, que é um lugar incrível, super de vanguarda e mega longe de onde estávamos, mas tudo bem, não fomos só nós que saímos correndo desfile da AF Vandervorst, todas essas pessoas também chegaram mais tarde. Ó o Yvan Rodic, do Face Hunter, de camisa xadrez, ele também chegou tarde. rs

Voltando para as celebridades do desfile, olha só alguns dos nomes que estavam presentes: Ne-Yo, Usher, Kelly Rowland e  Solange Knowles. Na foto abaixo o Usher e a Kelly ficou escondida ao lado dele.

Aliás, meia aqui em Paris é uniforme, as francesas sabem usar muito bem as meias, que já faz parte do guarda roupa delas. Outra coisa que vem chamando minha atenção aqui é o preto, todo mundo SÓ veste preto, um verdadeiro batalhão de fashinistas, todos nas mesma cor. 

Bem, mas como nem tudo são flores... Não entramos no desfile da Dior. É para ficar arrasada,né? Pois é, apesar de ter recebido a confirmação de que estávamos na lista, chegou na hora não estávamos. Aff. Estava acontecendo tudo muito direitinho mesmo, alguma coisa era para acontecer, mas porque justo no desfile da Dior? rs

Bem, como diz aquele ditado: com limão se faz uma limonada. Como não entramos, peguei minha máquina e me diverti junto com os fotógrafos atrás das celebridades. Dei muita risada junto com os fotógrafos japoneses, onde tinha um tumultozinho eu ia lá ver também.

E foi aí que tirei essas fotos:

A editora da Vogue Francesa, Carine Roitfeld e sua saia jeans

Katy Perry, a moça que canta “I kissed a girl”.

A cantora Lily Allen.

Dita Von Teese, que já havíamos encontrado no desfile da Vivienne em Londres.

Emma Watson, a atriz do filme Harry Potter que virou ícone fashion.

Marion Cotillard, a atriz vencedora do Oscar de melhor atriz, que interpretou Edith Piaf.

Anna Piaggi, da Vogue Itália.

Bem, o que se fala po aqui é que a marca que reposicionar com uma imagem mais jovem e moderna, pelo o que vimos dessas celebridades, faz super sentido essa teoria, porque ter na primeira fila Emma, Dita, Lily Allen e Katy Perry não pode ser apenas acaso do destino. Concorda?

Hum... deixa ver o o que mais...

Super me emocionei com o desfile da Cacharel, que comemorou 50 anos da marca, no backstage rolou um super choro coletivo de emoção. Achei bacana a estilista conceder a entrevista pra gente em meio à lágrimas.

E outra emoção foi assisitir hoje o desfile do Issey Miyake que apresentou uma coleção inspirada no Brasil. Amei ver uma leitura não caricata do nosso país, a criação tirou o que há de melhor na natureza, trabalhou com oito cores da nossa floresta e ainda trouxe um vestido que foi criado em conjunto com Oscar Niemeyer. Quando cheguei para a entrevista no backstage, todos estavam animadissimo para explicar a coleção para TV brasileira, principalmente como aconteceu esse criação do vestido Niemayer. Foi óteeeemo.

Este, chamado Ovo, foi criado por um desgner japonês, chamado Shunji Yamanaka.

Os outros designers são Naoto Fukasawa, Tokujin Yoshioka, Harri Koskinen; e você pode ver todos os modelos aqui

.
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Sources: blush.com | kicks.se | mavistore.com

Como a Natureza é realmente um exemplo perfeito e completo de adaptação, os insetos por sua vez criaram seu próprio sistema de adequação. Alguns se viciaram em determinados aromas, passando então a fazer o que conhecemos como polinização, levando de um lado para outro, sementes, criando novas espécies. A inteligência das plantas então precisou criar aromas cada vez mais fortes e sofisticados. Da raiz às flores se encontrava substâncias fungicidas, bactericidas e a cicatrização ficou por conta das resinas.

Chegamos ao Antigo Egito, quando o homem através da observação das plantas aprende a honrar os deuses, envenenar armas, criar rituais religiosos e de sedução, curar, embalsamar e perfumar. Nesta época a saúde física e espiritual era una.

Na Grécia Antiga já se valorizava a higiene e a beleza, e é dali que vem o costume, mantido até hoje, de jogarem-se pétalas de rosas nas tumbas como símbolo de vida eterna. Quanto à arte da perfumaria já se usa olíbano, mirra, canela, cravo, benjoim e sândalo com o intuito de sedução no século IV a.C. Entretanto, na Roma Antiga é que tais usos se perpetuam e o hábito de tomar banho se estabelece como ritual cotidiano de limpeza física e espiritual. Surge o sabonete, que naquela época chamava-se "sapo" - uma mistura de gordura de carneiro, cinzas de ervas queimadas e óleos essenciais.

Nesta época fica bem clara a relação das ervas e plantas como remédio através de "Tratados Médicos" atribuindo poderes curativos ao sândalo, ao cardamomo e à rosa, em poder da burguesia. Ao passo que se estabelece o uso cosmético, com a manufatura de pomadas, talcos e águas aromáticas, diminui o simbolismo místico e religioso. Surgem os recipientes de vidro, que substituem os de cerâmica usados até então. Têm vantagem soberana, já que não deixam odores, as resinas não são absorvidas pela porosidade da cerâmica e ainda podem imitar os recipientes gregos em suas formas e cores.

Na Idade Média Yakub al Kindi (803-870) escreve o "The Book of Chemistry", onde faz alusão aos óleos essenciais. É quando também se dá a descoberta e o desenvolvimento da destilação, creditada ao poeta, matemático, médico e alquimista Avicenna (980-1037).

Historicamente, a primeira destilação bem sucedida foi a da rosa, que merece um livro inteiro sobre o assunto. Santa Hildegarde von Bingen escreve quatro tratados de medicina herbal (Causae et Curare), sendo a ela também creditada a criação da Água de Lavanda, sua favorita. Entretanto, não só a Água de Lavanda é usada nesta época, surgem a Água de Carmelita e a Água Milagrosa que são fórmulas secretas, guardadas a sete chaves pelos padres e freiras europeus por serem preciosas pelo poder curativo, inclusive contra "problemas de visão", melancolia, memória, dor e febre. Apesar de todo o segredo, sabe-se que dentre as ervas, havia três flores: lavanda, angélica e camomila.

Neste ponto já é possível notar alguns conhecidos nossos - fórmulas secretas, poder da Igreja e tratados médicos em poder da burguesia. Sabemos que isto é apenas o começo. Controle e monopólio não são "privilégio" de nossos tempos. Já nos Séculos XIII e XIV a Itália monopoliza as rotas comerciais do Oriente. Há o controle das especiarias e do perfume, com o intuito de debelar a praga, a Igreja restringe o uso das ervas apenas aos palácios e monastérios sendo seu uso fora deles totalmente proibido, com conseqüências que seria redundância mencionar.

Nas Cruzadas (1096-1291) desenvolve-se o comércio entre o Oriente e a Europa, com o incremento da utilização das especiarias e das essências. Volta-se a valorizar a higiene, trazendo o perfume, desta vez aliado à arte. Na França se estabelece a união entre os herbalistas e os boticários, estes, por sua vez, por possuírem maior cultura, assumem o papel de médicos e perfumistas.

Com a chegada do Século XVIII não é mais necessário mascarar odores fortes, e em conseqüência modifica-se o senso olfativo fazendo surgir os aromas florais. Registra-se o surgimento da primeira fragrância sintética, isto é, produzida em laboratório, em 1868, sendo que no ano anterior já havia ocorrido algo que viria modificar a história efetivamente. Foi o fato de que na Feira Internacional de Paris os perfumes e sabonetes foram expostos em uma seção à parte da farmacêutica. Estava estabelecido um setor industrial independente. Os perfumes deixam de ser considerados curativos e naturais, tornando-se apenas acessórios.

Porém, nem tudo está perdido, já que em 1928, Maurice Gattefossé nos traz de presente a Aromaterapia, e com o advento da II Guerra Mundial (1939-1945) Jean Valnet lança como recurso extremo, a fim de amenizar a dor e curar as feridas de seus soldados, os óleos essenciais, sendo muito bem sucedido.A partir disto, continua seus estudos, desta vez testando os óleos essenciais para curar distúrbios de ordem psiquiátrica, podendo comprovar sua eficácia.

Mais tarde, diversas ervas compunham banhos aromáticos, pomadas e perfumes pessoais dos egípcios. Mas foi Cleópatra quem eternizou a arte da perfumaria, ela seduziu Marco Antônio e Julio César usando um perfume à base de óleos extraídos das flores de henna, açafrão, menta e zimbro.

No início o perfume era à base de ceras, gorduras, óleos vegetais e sabões misturados a ervas. Com a descoberta do vidro, no século I, os perfumes ganharam uma nova cara, reduzindo sua volatilidade e ganhando formas e cores.

Por volta do século X, Avicena, o mais famoso médico árabe, descobriu a destilação dos óleos essenciais das rosas, e assim criou a Água de Rosas. Depois veio a Água de Toilette, feito para a rainha da Hungria. No século XIX o perfume ganha novos usos, como o terapêutico, por exemplo.

Hoje sabemos que o perfume é capaz de revelar a personalidade das pessoas, bem como sua classe social, uma vez que, um pequeno frasco pode atingir valores exorbitantes.

É comum o mesmo perfume apresentar cheiros diferentes quando aplicado em pessoas diferentes. Isso porque, os odores corporais são únicos, sendo resultado da alimentação, das características pessoais, dos lipídeos e ácidos graxos que a pele exala. A temperatura da pele interfere diretamente na vaporização do perfume, e portanto no cheiro que ele exala.

A magia dos cheiros

Mais do que revelar a personalidade de uma pessoa, o perfume influencia o estado de espírito de todos nós. Ao penetrarem pelas narinas, os aromas encontram o sistema límbico, responsável pela memória, sentimentos e emoções. Quando uma mensagem aromática penetra neste sistema, provoca sensações de euforia, relaxamento, sedação ou estimulações neuroquímicas.

Antigamente, o sistema límbico era chamado de cérebro das emoções. Quando estamos muito tensos e nervosos, um aroma de lavanda é capaz de nos relaxar e nos induzir ao sono, ajudando em casos de insônia. Quando estamos apáticos, deprimidos, infelizes, o aroma de bergamota pode ajudar na recuperação. Aromas de  limão, vetiver, eucalipto e alecrim melhoram a concentração, enquanto os de alecrim aliviam o cansaço.

 Aside from Charo Ronquillo (check here photos here), another Filipino Model represented by Ford Models, is Brent Chua. Dubbed as the Asian Male Supermodel, Brent Chua is a Filipino Chinese model who is now based in New York, after conquering the runways of the Asian region and Europe. He has appeared in campaigns such as Benetton, Bang and Olufsen, TIGI Bedhead, Motorola and the catwalks of Versace, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Gucci, Boss among others.

Off-duty. Model Style

Styling by Keith S. Washington

Makeup by Yuko

Clothing by Susana Monaco (http://www.susanamonaco.com), Jovani (http://www.jovani.com) and Issey Miyake (http://www.isseymiyake.co.jp).

Thanks

Michael Creagh

Bom, na verdade, descobri que ela já misturou suas performances com moda em desfiles na década de 60, que ela recentemente colaborou com o estilista Issey Miyake e que seu trabalho foi usado como tema (e ela foi a coordenadora do projeto) de um desfile realizado pelos alunos do Bunka Fashion College do Japão.

Mas eu ainda acredito nela como uma inspiração importantíssima para o design em geral. Ela usa algumas cores bem anos 80, misturadas com todos esses petit pois dos 50 (louquíssimos petti pois) e inúmeros padrões e símbolos facilmente reconhecíveis como essas abóboras...

Mas, sabe como são as coisas. Eu estava aqui pesquisando e descobri que ninguém menos que Marc Jacobs a descobriu antes de mim (dezembro de 2007). Ok, ok. Ele é um gênio da moda e do marketing, ultimamente mais do marketing do que da moda, acho, e eu estou apenas começando...

Sharon Wauchob

While searching through my magazines, through various websites and blogs for that special new trend, it is disconcerting to repeatedly come across one of three things:

1. a mod mess
2. fifties forgery or, yet another,
3. bubble skirt

Creativity has been stifled with stiff dollar bills. Thanks to the brilliant minds behind H&M and Wal-Mart, there is always a quick buck to be made, just ask Madonna, Roberto Cavalli or Karl Lagerfeld, all of whom slapped their name on a tank top to deem it ‘designer’ and, thus, justifying the forty dollar price tag.

Issey Miyake

As a fashion lover, myself, I have no qualms about paying a slightly-higher-than-imaginable price for a designer treasure (although I assure you, it happens less than you think) but I also believe designer treasure is a lot different than a poorly made over-priced, I-slapped-a-celebrity’s-name-on-this-so-buy-it dress.

Good news - I struck gold and this season “It” designers have traveled back in time, reached down into the fire-y depths of their imaginative core and pulled out something pre-historic, and, not to mention, something I love.

Emma Cook

Aside from Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière, Haider Ackermann and Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, it is hard to find a collection that does not resemble a dumbed-down version of the latest Dolce & Gabbana Ad. However, this time around, Issey Miyake, Gaetano Navarra, Emma Cook and Sharon Wauchob prove they can run with the best. Feathers, animal prints and shaggy wool are perfectly paired with the river-bed color palette. This fall season it’s all about earth tones and sunset hues and without a bell sleeve or shoulder pad in sight, this trend has no limits. However, it is only a matter of time before these one of a kind look s are whittled down to a Halloween-esque Betty Rubble knock -off. Just try and get them while they’re actually hot.

Gaetano Navarra

Images from www.elle.com/collections

Fabien Baron is tastemaker and has been on top of his game for awhile, if you don't know the guy, do some research. Baron is responsible for the infamous Calvin Klein campaigns among others like Prada, Issey Miyake, Balenciaga, Burberry, Miu Miu, I can go on, but I'll just point you to where to go if you need more info.

I've recently bumped into these Fabien Baron shades and was in awe, they are very sexy. I would not mind rocking these after sun-down. They aren't available on their site, because it's "coming-soon" but I know where you can get em of course! ;)

There is a FANTASTIC-MUST-READ interview on Fabien Baron by Hint Fashion Magazine and more info at Baron & Baron

Naoto Fukasawa est un designer de renom qui a déjà collaboré pour de nombreuses marques (Boffi,Driadre, B&B, Artemide..).

Il a été appelé par la maison Issey Miyake et Seiko pour réaliser une collection de montres.

Le nom de code de ces produits : Trapezoid.